If you've started feeling that annoying slip every time you shift, it's probably time to look for a 2013 brz clutch kit that can actually handle how you drive. Let's be real for a second—the 2013 model year was the very first for the Subaru BRZ and Toyota 86 platform. While it was an absolute game-changer for people who love lightweight, rear-wheel-drive sports cars, those early units definitely had some "first-year" quirks. One of the most common things owners find themselves dealing with after 60,000 or 80,000 miles is a clutch that just doesn't want to grab like it used to.
If you're sitting at a stoplight and you notice the engagement point is getting higher and higher, or if you floor it in fourth gear and the RPMs climb faster than the car actually moves, you're in the market for a replacement. But picking the right kit isn't just about grabbing the cheapest box on the shelf. It's about deciding how you want the car to feel every single day.
Why the 2013 Model Year is a Bit Different
The 2013 BRZ is a special beast, but it's also the one that suffered the most from the infamous throw-out bearing (TOB) issue. If you've spent any time on the forums, you know exactly what I'm talking about. That high-pitched squealing or "cricket" sound when you barely touch the clutch pedal? That's usually the bearing crying for help.
When you go out to buy a 2013 brz clutch kit, most modern kits will include an updated, revised throw-out bearing. Back in the day, the grease in the original bearings would dry out because of the heat, leading to premature failure. If you're replacing the clutch anyway, you're basically doing a "while you're in there" service to fix a ticking time bomb. It's honestly a relief once it's done, because you don't have to worry about the bearing seizing up and leaving you stranded on the side of the road.
Deciding Between OEM and Aftermarket
This is where most people get stuck. Do you go with a standard OEM replacement, or do you "upgrade" to something beefier?
If your BRZ is a daily driver and you haven't added a turbo or a supercharger, the OEM Exedy kit is usually the smartest move. Subaru actually used Exedy as the original equipment manufacturer, so buying an Exedy Stage 0 (OEM replacement) is basically getting the factory part without the "Subaru Genuine Part" price markup. It's got a light pedal feel, it's quiet, and it won't make your left leg feel like you've been doing heavy squats after a 30-minute commute in traffic.
On the flip side, if you've started down the path of modifications—maybe an e85 tune, headers, or you're planning on a forced induction kit—you're going to need something that can hold more torque. A Stage 1 or Stage 2 kit usually features a more aggressive friction material. It'll grab harder, which is great for the track, but the trade-off is often a stiffer pedal and maybe a little bit of "chatter" when you're taking off from a stop.
The Flywheel Question: To Lighten or Not?
While you're shopping for a 2013 brz clutch kit, you'll probably see a lot of options that include a lightweight flywheel. This is one of those mods that really changes the character of the car. The stock 2013 BRZ flywheel is pretty heavy, which makes the car easier to drive smoothly because the inertia keeps the engine spinning.
A lightweight flywheel allows the engine to rev up much faster. It makes rev-matching on downshifts feel like a dream. However, it also makes the RPMs drop faster when you clutch in. If you aren't used to it, you might find yourself stalling at red lights for the first week. Also, be prepared for "gear lash" noise. Without that heavy mass to dampen vibrations, the transmission can sound a bit clattery when you're idling with the A/C on. It's a personal preference thing, but for a pure street car, many people find that staying closer to the stock weight is more comfortable.
Don't Forget the "While You're In There" Parts
I can't stress this enough: if you're pulling the transmission out of a 2013 BRZ, don't just swap the disc and pressure plate. There are a few small items that can turn a $500 job into a $1,500 nightmare if they fail a month later.
First, the rear main seal. It's a cheap rubber seal on the back of the engine. If it's leaking even a tiny bit, replace it while the flywheel is off. If it fails later, you have to pull the whole transmission again just to change a $20 part.
Second, the clutch fork and pivot ball. The 2013 models had a stamped steel clutch fork that can sometimes flex or even snap if you upgrade to a much stiffer pressure plate. A lot of guys swap in a forged unit or at least a hardened pivot ball to make sure everything stays solid. It's cheap insurance for peace of mind.
The Reality of the Installation
Is a 2013 brz clutch kit something you can install in your driveway? Technically, yes. Is it a fun weekend project? That depends on how much you like wrestling with a transmission while lying on your back.
The BRZ is actually one of the easier rear-wheel-drive cars to work on because the transmission isn't monstrously heavy, but you still have to clear the headers, disconnect the driveshaft, and deal with some stubborn bolts on the top of the bellhousing. You'll definitely want a decent transmission jack and a friend to help you line things up. If you're doing it yourself, make sure you have a clutch alignment tool—most kits come with one, but double-check. There's nothing worse than getting the transmission halfway on and realizing the disc isn't perfectly centered.
Breaking It In Properly
Once you've got your new 2013 brz clutch kit installed and the car is back on the ground, the hardest part begins: the break-in period. It is so tempting to immediately go out and see how that new Stage 1 clutch holds under a hard launch, but don't do it.
Most manufacturers recommend a 500-mile break-in period of "stop-and-go" city driving. This allows the friction material to heat cycle and marry perfectly to the surface of the flywheel and pressure plate. If you just jump on the highway and drive 500 miles in sixth gear, that doesn't count. You need to be shifting, engaging, and disengaging. If you glaze the clutch by getting it too hot before it's broken in, it might never perform the way it's supposed to, and you'll be left with a pedal that feels inconsistent.
Final Thoughts on Upgrading
At the end of the day, replacing the clutch in your 2013 BRZ is just part of the ownership experience. These cars were built to be driven, and parts that see friction are eventually going to wear out. The good news is that the aftermarket support for this platform is absolutely massive. Whether you want to keep that soft, easy-to-drive factory feel or you want a hardcore, snappy engagement for autocross weekends, there is a 2013 brz clutch kit out there that fits the bill.
Take your time, check your throw-out bearing, and maybe consider an upgraded clutch line while you're at it to firm up the pedal feel. Once it's all buttoned up, it'll feel like a brand-new car again, and you can get back to enjoying what the BRZ does best—taking corners and making every drive feel like an event.